Armour
PLATES L6-L11 (and rounds, if included): THE ELBOW AND ARM
Start by fitting the hinges to plate L10, then L11. Fit the hinges from the inside. The hinge pin should protrude through the cutaway slot. (Fig. 4) Fit steel rivets from the outer face, rest the domes against your anvil, and burr the rivets from the inside.
The remaining procedure is simply a matter of selecting the correct plates, aligning the holes, and joining them with steel rivets and washers. Compare the pieces with Fig. 5 to make sure the parts are the right way up before assembling.
Push the steel rivets from the outside, fit washers on the inner side and burr them over. These plates revolve around the rivets, so the rivets must not be made too tight. We recommend this sequence for easy access to holes:
L6 to L7: L7 fits on the outer face of L6.
L10 to L9: L9 fits outside L10
L9 to L8: L8 fits outside L9
L7 to L8: L7 fits inside L8. It may be necessary to bend the ends of Plates L7 & L8. We use self locking "molegrip" clamps for this. The central sets of holes in L8 are for the buckle and strap.
Rounds: Pass a copper rivet through the hole in the round and the outermost hole in L8, add a washer and burr it from the inside.
ASSEMBLING THE UPPER AND LOWER ARMS
Place the assembled arm (L6-L11) inside the shoulder assembly, and free the 200mm suspension straps. Manoeuvre the plates until the distance from the elbow point (the middle of L8) to the shoulder point (the inner curve of L1, between the body suspension buckle rivets) is the same as your upper arm measurement. (Fig. 6)
Mark the point on the suspension straps where they pass over the centre holes of Plate 6. Measure the distance from that point to the rivet holding the strap, and subtract 5% as the leather will stretch. At the 95% mark, punch a 4mm hole in the strap. Assemble the plates with a copper rivet pushed through from outside, a washer, the suspension strap, a second washer, and burr it over.
Your elbow should fit snugly inside the elbow cup when wearing your jupon or jack.
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